I did over 200 square feet of Pergo over the Memorial Day weekend, with plenty of time to attend the requisite barbeques, etc. IOW, it didn't really take 3 days. I spent longer pulling up the carpet and tack strip than I spent actually cutting & laying Pergo. I did another 250 square feet in the 2 day weekend before Thanksgiving. Again, moving furniture and pulling up the staples they used to hold down the carpet pad took as much time as laying the Pergo.
Other than the planks ($3/sq ft), you need foam underlayment ($0.17/sq ft), and Pergo glue. I use about 1 bottle per 80 square feet. It's hard to get the last bit out of the bottle, but you can unscrew the caps from three almost empty bottles and pour them into one usable bottle again. The transition strips between Pergo and carpet, or from one room of Pergo to another, are very overpriced, IMHO, but hey, they match. You never glue Pergo down, you just glue each plank to its neighbors. Some Pergo doesn't even get glued together at all.
I did some crosscuts on a miter saw with a 40 tooth 10" blade, and some with a circular saw with a fine blade. Some cuts (for heat vents, notches around doorways) were done with a sabre saw with the finest blade I could find. All the cuts look good enough, and they all get covered by baseboard molding or heater grates. I was worried about not getting a clean cut, but apparently anything finer than a chainsaw works okay.
Most of this is in the Pergo directions. My Home Depot stocks a how-to video (about $5) in the Pergo section, and it explained everything I needed to know. Highlights:
-- store the planks (still in their wrappers) in the room where you'll be installing it for a few days before installation so it can adjust to the temperature/humidity
-- work from left to right, starting with a groove against the wall where you start. Since you only apply glue to the groove, this means you'll always have the grooves on the piece in your hand, not the one on the floor that you can't get glue into the groove of. They do start on the left in the video, but they don't mention why that's a good idea.
-- the little green plastic spacers Pergo sells help maintain the gap along walls BUT -- a) you don't need as many as they say you will. They say to buy 1 per square foot. I used half that many. b) if your drywall doesn't go all the way down to the floor (it rarely does) the spacers want to lean into that gap and reduce their usefullness.
-- have lots of straps on hand. The non-Pergo brand straps that cost half as much as the real thing work just fine. The glue sets up faster than I thought it would, so having 3 straps and moving them around doesn't work well. I used 7 straps in a room about 20 feet long, and 3 more straps would have been nice. Some tool rental places and flooring stores rent the straps, so it's easy to have enough. Since I plan to do most of my house in Pergo eventually, I'm buying a few more straps for each room I do.
-- have the plastic Pergo tapping block and the chrome tapping hook on hand. You'll only need the hook for the last plank in a course, but you really do need it.
-- if you stop working for a while, there will be a small, maybe invisible gob of glue on the tongue edge of the row where you stopped, right at each end-end plank joint. Scrape it off by sliding the tapping block lengthwise along the last row. Otherwise you won't be able to close up the gap on the next row. That tip's not in the video, but should be.
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